BRAND NEW

Hair & Concept by Nadia Vassell

Story by Tracee Loran Scott

It was the first of the month, which meant it was time for Bianca Morgan to visit the neighborhood newsstand and purchase the latest issues of her favorite magazines. For nearly 7 years, this had been the high-powered attorney’s treasured routine. Little did Bianca know that her beloved custom was about to be interrupted. Before she could palm the newest Essence, Ebony or O, she ogled a vision of beauty plastered on the cover of Hype Hair – THE PERFECT ‘DO! Bianca had grown weary of her Black Girl Bob and really wanted something fresh. Well, the real truth is she was tired of her friends calling her Boring Bianca; they claimed she never changed anything. Her life, they alleged, was as predictable as Tuesday following Monday. Publically Bianca detested the charges, but secretly she knew her friends were right and she was going to transform! The first thing to morph would be her hair. But after months of searching, she didn’t find a style that struck her, until now. Bianca had to have it. She hastily threw money at the vendor, grabbed the magazine and sprinted home faster than Usain Bolt. Left in the dust was January’s Essence, Ebony and O. “It doesn’t matter,” she admitted to herself. “It’s the same old “How to please your man and lose ten pounds” non-sense.

Bianca ran through her apartment door dropping everything except Hype Hair and called her stylist Nadia Vassell. Though everyone had abandoned their landlines for so-called Smart Phones, Bianca was old school and still had a house phone. She picked up the corded receiver and feverishly dialed Nadia’s number. It seemed like the phone rang for an eternity. Finally, Nadia answered. “Hi, The Nadia Vas-.“ Before the chic stylist could utter her full greeting, Bianca butt in, “Nadia, please tell me you have an opening right now! I just saw a FAN-TABULOUS ‘DO and I must have it TODAY!!!!” Amused and bewildered by the urgency, Nadia agreed to take one more client.

Bianca rushed to the salon with furious determination. She just couldn’t wait to see her new self. Nadia took one look at the pixie cut, brazenly red, Rihanna-esque style and questioned Bianca’s decision. “It’s RockStar hot, but are you sure you want to do something so drastically different?” Despite Nadia’s professional wisdom and doubt Bianca would not be deterred; “drastic” and “different” was definitely what she wanted. Nadia acquiesced, “Alright, let’s do it.” After three hours of cutting, perming, coloring and styling, Bianca arose from the chair looking like new money! She gawked at the girl in the mirror with amazement as if it was someone else; the hairstyle was everything she imagined then some! “Bye, Bye Boring Bianca, hello Brand New Bianca!”

Brand New Bianca left the salon that day viewing the world through rose-colored glasses. Everything looked, smelled and sounded differently. She heard theme music playing in her head as she strutted down the New York City streets like Naomi Campbell attacked the runway in her hay day. In fact, she could have sworn she saw her picture on a billboard!

Brand New Bianca wasted no time sharing her new ‘do. She called up her estranged boyfriend, Reginald, and made a date for the night. Reginald was shocked because after the last blow-up a month earlier he was sure he’d never see her again. On the way home from the salon, Brand New Bianca stopped by Haute Couture Boutique and bought a super sexy form-fitting knit shirt-dress that dipped lower than the economy during the recession. To complete the magazine look she grabbed some black laced leggings and funky knee-high boots with “just right” heels. “Reg is not gon’ be ready for all this,” she thought sheepishly.

Reginald arrived on time…for once. (His egregious tardiness, among many things, had been a point of contention for the couple). The sight of Brand New Bianca nearly gave the brotha a heart-attack. “Damn, Baby, you look good! I’m feeling the fresh ‘do; it’s hot.” After ten giggles, twenty eye-lash bats and fifty “you think so’s” Reginald and Brand New Bianca finally hit the town.

Bianca insisted on going to her fav restaurant, Morimoto. This was no McDonald’s and Reginald typically complained about parting with so much cash, but he knew he was on thin ice so he humbly remained quiet. (Reginald’s ridiculous frugality was contention point number 2!)

Bianca’s new ‘do gave her the confidence of 100 Victoria’s Secret models. All night long she coyly flirted with Reginald. She clung to his every word, rubbed up against his chiseled arms and rock-hard thighs every chance she got and engaged in a serious game of footsy. It was so steamy, at one point Reginald was seriously considering taking Bianca on a trip to the “Little Boy’s Room” for some spontaneous lovin’. But he wanted to save “it” for later so he could really get busy.

The waitress visited the table and inquired about the couple’s half-eaten meal. “Was everything ok?” Without taking his eyes off of Bianca Reginald quickly replied, “Everything was delicious. We’ll take the check.” Happy that they were satisfied with the food, the waitress pressed the issue. “Can I interest you in some dessert?” “Just the check, please. We’re gonna have dessert at home.” His suggestive response made the waitress smile.

Back at her cozy condo, Brand New Bianca barely got the key in the door before Reginald showered her with a long passionate kiss. An intense wave of heat shot through Bianca’s body as she squirmed and wiggled. “Oooh,” she cooed. “You like that, huh?,” Reginald asked excitedly. “There’s more…”

It turned out that Reginald had his own Brand Newness; he’d been reading all about the wonders of tantric sex and was anxious to apply his “education.” Reginald methodically traced Bianca’s face with his tongue leaving her lips for last, this time holding absolutely nothing back. The calendar may have read December, but the apartment was a burning inferno! Suddenly Bianca pulled away as if she was back in high school and was about to be busted by her parents. “Reg I can’t do this.” Deflated and confused Reginald pleaded, “What? Huh? Why? PLEASE!!!!” “Sorry Reg. I can’t.” Bianca peered into Reginald’s wistful eyes; she felt conflicted. He looked so good and she was like a cat in heat! She thought for a moment, then leaned in closely pressing her mouth to his ears and seductively whispered, “I just got my hair done.”

I’m sure we can all relate to Bianca’s plight. A Black woman’s hair is sacred! Please share stories of how your hair has either improved or hampered your sex life. If you’d like to remain anonymous, just send me a private message and I’ll print your story without using your name.

Nadia

Everything Hair-Weaves and Haircare: Weaving is simply an embellishment. Similar to put...

Everything Hair-Weaves and Haircare: Weaving is simply an embellishment. Similar to put...: "Weaving is simply an embellishment. Similar to putting on makeup, a particular type of nail polish, clothing, luxury bags. The debate about ..."

I know it’s been a while since you’ve heard from me. When I began blogging, my sole purpose was to provide you with solid, accessible information that will help you maintain those healthy, shiny tresses. But for the last few days (or what seems like weeks) I’ve been hampered by writer’s block. I just couldn’t figure out what to talk about or maybe I just wasn’t motivated. That’s a lot like our hair. Sometimes it just doesn’t want to do what we want it to do!

Well, after a discussion with my colleague about Marcel Irons and Ceramic Irons and the potential damage that can be caused by the latter, I found myself doing extensive research about the topic. And so it seems that the block has been lifted. Ahhh!

We all want that sleek, straight, shiny Ciara-look, right? So how can Black women (or any woman with tight curly hair) achieve this? We use many methods such as relaxers, straightening combs, Keratin Smoothing Therapy and yes, flat irons. Before you fall into a flat iron craze (or if you already have) tread lightly or else your attempts to achieve A-List celebrity hair status may leave your ‘locs listless!

Dermatologist Paradi Mirmirani, MD. FAAD, assistant clinical professor of dermatology, University of California, San Franciso suggests that some ceramic irons can cause damage if used frequently and improperly. “The newer flat irons that have a ceramic coating instead of a metal one are marketed as providing more rapid and uniform heat transmission. While this allows for quicker straightening of the hair with less damage, it is really a classic case of buyer beware,” said Dr. Mirmirani. “We’re seeing that when these ceramic flat irons are used at the highest heat settings and on a daily basis to achieve straight hair, they can really take a toll on the structure of the hair and cause very noticeable problems that can be hard to repair.” (Paradi Mirmirani, 2008).

Based on Dr. Mirmirani’s contention if you use a ceramic iron on a daily basis to maintain your Ciara look, you are asking for what may follow - damage to the outer cuticle, causing weathering damage and eventually hair breakage which can be difficult to repair.

Hair weathering is described as dry ends or fly-away hair. However, if breakage occurs, it can happen anywhere along the length of the hair and cause that shaggy or limp appearance. This in turn may encourage flat-iron users to use the heated device with more frequency in an attempt to try and “fix” the problem, but all this does is lead to more damage.

To avoid this damaging cycle, let’s look at some steps to protect your hair.

§ Use flat iron less frequently, no more than 2-3 times per week.

§ Use on dry hair only.

§ Use a heat protector like Thermasmooth Smooth Guard Smoothing Serum by Mizani to coat your hair before applying any form of heat. Not only does this protect your hair, it also helps maintain newly straightened tresses longer.

§ The heat setting should be no higher than 347 degrees F or 175 degrees C.

If your hair is already damaged, then I suggest you see a hair care professional as soon as possible and refrain from applying heat and/or chemicals to your own mane. The hair specialist should trim the damaged ends to allow for new strands to grow and place you on a conditioning regiment until your hair is strong and healthy.

Once your hair is behaving beautifully and you have achieved the Ciara-look; you can follow her workout routine so you can also duplicate her toned physique. J

Weaving is simply an embellishment. Similar to putting on makeup, a particular type of nail polish, clothing, luxury bags. The debate about weave is sometime exaggerated if you ask me. Don't over think it. Do it if you would like. Do not if you don't. But don't knock the lady who does because you never know... You might wear makeup and she doesn't. Does that make one "bad"? hmmm....The beauty of it is that you have a choice...

Just saw Chris rock good hair and thought it was hilarious yet thought provoking. Have to wonder about the statement that our very emotion, and self esteem is dependent on how our hair looks! ..really?

Shereen Ashman

What Does Your Hair Do For You?

Our hair sets the stage for our entire outfit, our confidence and the way that we speak. It’s funny how a perky mood can be destroyed by a bad hair day. I have experienced this before and will undoubtedly experience it again in the future because a bad hair day is inevitable and can’t always be avoided. If I am having a bad hair day, I usually refuse to attend any social gatherings. That means no bars, no clubs, no parties - no nothing! And guys please don’t approach me and ask me to dance, offer to buy a drink, ask me my name or if I’m single. You’re gonna hate me because of my “bad hair day stank attitude!” Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

If a bad hair day can ruin your mood, a good hair day can instantly lift your spirits. Hair that’s done just right can help potential jobseekers land that plum job. With beautifully coiffed hair, the climate during an interview is as perfect as a Caribbean breeze. You are more likely to sit tall, ask relevant questions and answer questions asked of you with confidence. You’ll look the interviewer directly in the eye and not worry that your hair is the focal point for all the wrong reasons. A great hair day alters the way you walk down the street; you cheerfully strut with movie-like theme music buzzing in your head as your feet hit the pavement. And, you welcome advances from (cute) guys. On a good hair day you simply cannot be defeated!

So what does your hair do for you?

Mane-Taining Healthy Hair

Maintaining healthy hair shouldn’t be that hard; it’s actually quite simple if we follow a few basic steps. The same time, energy and attention that we devote to our body and skincare routines should also be given to our manes. Follow my tried and true regiment and you’re off to a great start.

Before we dive in, let’s flashback to science class for moment; there may be a pop quiz so pay attention to Professor Vassell! :-) In order to maintain healthy hair, I believe it’s important to know and understand the three phases of the growth cycle – Anagen, Categen, and Telogen. First up is Anagen, the Growth Phase. Approximately 85% of the hair on your head is in the growth stage at any given time. This period lasts for about 2 – 6 years. As I’m sure you’ve already reasoned this phase determines the length of your hair. Obviously, the longer your hair remains in the Anagen Phase, the longer it will grow. Clients always ask me, “Why doesn’t my hair grow longer?” You now know this is due to a short active phase growth.

Next is Categen, the Transitional Phase. When the Anagen Phase ends, hair enters into a Categen Phase which lasts about 2 -3 weeks. During this time the outer hair follicle shrinks to about 1/6^th of the normal diameter. The root is diminished and the dermal papilla (group of cells that form the structure directly below the hair follicle) breaks away and rests below the scalp.

Finally there is the Telogen, the Resting Phase, which lasts about 5 – 6 weeks. Approximately 10 to 15 percent of all hairs on your head are in this resting phase at any given moment. At the end of this stage, the hair follicle re-enters the growth phase. The dermal papilla and the base of the follicle join together again and a new hair begins to form. In some cases, the new hair will push the old hair out of the way and the hair growth cycle starts all over again.

So now that you know all about the growth cycles, how do you maintain healthy hair? I think most people focus on the stuff they put on their hair. However, research shows that more attention is needed to the stuff we put into our bodies. So apart from the good shampoos and conditioners I recommended in my previous blog, you have to eat foods that support healthy hair growth. According to webmd.com, "If you eat a healthy diet, you will grow stronger and healthier cells throughout your entire body -- inside and out."

To get you on a path to “good” hair here are some foods you can incorporate into your diet:

1. Salmon - Rich in omega3 fatty acids

2. Green Veggies – Leafy green vegetables are an excellent source of vitamins and nutriments. Romaine lettuce, broccoli and spinach is a good place to start.

3. Beans- chock full of biotin (biotin deficiency can promote hair loss)

4. Nuts - Such as brazil nuts & almonds

5. Oysters – You’d better pack up on those oysters! Not only are they known as an aphrodisiac, it’s an antioxidant and a great source of zinc.

6. Whole grains

In addition to eating a healthy diet, there are some basic steps you can take to pamper your tresses. Brush your hair often. Brushing stimulates the scalp and blow flow, which in turn promotes hair growth. Trim ends about every 4 -8 weeks, deep condition weekly or biweekly by using Moroccanoil Hydrating Mask or Mizani Renew Strength Reconstructing Masque. Top it off with a good leave-in conditioner, such as Mizani Thermasmooth Smooth Guard Smoothing Serum.

Pop quiz! So what are the three phase of the hair growth cycle? Name three foods that nourish your body and hair? What two things should you do to your hair often? If you answered with ease, you are on your way to super healthy hair. If not, you have a little more studying to do. Until next time…

Nadia Vassell

Choosing the Right Shampoo and Conditioner to Satisfy Your Hair Needs

No two heads are alike. We all have different hair textures, different scalp and hair conditions and different likes/dislikes. Therefore, we must have a shampoo and conditioner that is tailored for our needs. In a perfect world we’d be able to have our own team of scientists, chemists and hair experts toiling away in the laboratory creating a shampoo and conditioner specifically for us. But the reality is only a small segment of the population can afford such luxury. So what do the rest of us mere mortals do? Many of us stumble upon the perfect shampoo-conditioner tandem after years of trial and error.

In today’s hair care market, there are endless products to select from. You have to analyze the overall health of your hair and scalp then choose what’s best for you. That choice may not necessarily be the most expensive product available or the most popular. In some cases, you may find that your perfection in a bottle may be slightly more economical and omitted from the “Top Ten Most Popular Shampoos/Conditioners” list. But the most important thing is that the products work for you! In my profession, I naturally have the opportunity to try and sample a wide variety of hair care products from various companies. Below are the shampoos and conditioners that are used in The Nadia Vassell Salon and have proven to minimize breakage as well as improve the overall health of my clients’ hair.

But before I jump into the list, I want to talk first about the purpose of shampoo so that we can be on the same page. The primary function of shampoo is to remove the build-up of environmental pollutants, oil, hairspray and all of the everyday goop that we pour on our hair. Shampoo is also used to help combat certain scalp issues like dandruff, psoriasis and seborrhea dermatitis (excessive oily scalp). If you have extreme scalp conditions its best to consult a dermatologist who may prescribe a medicated shampoo or an OTC treatment.

Shampoo

1. Mizani Scalp Care Shampoo - Recommended for clients with severe or moderate scalp problems, such as psoriasis, scalp scaling and flaking. Infused with two ingredients, salicylic acid and pyrithion zinc, its proven to combat these issues. The peppermint oil and cucumber extract create a cool sensation on the scalp, and it moisturizes the hair without build-up.

2. Mizani Botanifying Shampoo – Recommended for everyday use. This shampoo is extremely moisturizing and effectively strengthens the hair and protects it against split ends and breakage.

3. Mizani PuriPhying – I typically use this as a first wash then chase it with the Mizani Botanifying Shampoo. It’s intense shampoo and does a really good job removing product build-up and pollutants.

4. Moroccanoil Moisture Repair Shampoo – This is a great shampoo that doesn’t strip the hair, but instead improves its overall health. It’s perfect for colored treated ‘locks and tresses that have been relaxed. And it’s free of sulfate and phosphate parabens making it gentle on the environment!

Conditioner

1. Moroccanoil Repair Conditioner – The ingredients in this delightful conditioner are argan oil, keratin, fatty acids and proteins. They all come together to detangle, restore moisture and leave the hair shiny!

2. Moisturefuse by Mizani – Improves the overall health of the hair and minimizes breakage.