Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Mane-Taining Healthy Hair


Maintaining healthy hair shouldn’t be that hard; it’s actually quite simple if we follow a few basic steps. The same time, energy and attention that we devote to our body and skincare routines should also be given to our manes. Follow my tried and true regiment and you’re off to a great start.

Before we dive in, let’s flashback to science class for moment; there may be a pop quiz so pay attention to Professor Vassell! :-) In order to maintain healthy hair, I believe it’s important to know and understand the three phases of the growth cycle – Anagen, Categen, and Telogen. First up is Anagen, the Growth Phase. Approximately 85% of the hair on your head is in the growth stage at any given time. This period lasts for about 2 – 6 years. As I’m sure you’ve already reasoned this phase determines the length of your hair. Obviously, the longer your hair remains in the Anagen Phase, the longer it will grow. Clients always ask me, “Why doesn’t my hair grow longer?” You now know this is due to a short active phase growth.

Next is Categen, the Transitional Phase. When the Anagen Phase ends, hair enters into a Categen Phase which lasts about 2 -3 weeks. During this time the outer hair follicle shrinks to about 1/6th of the normal diameter. The root is diminished and the dermal papilla (group of cells that form the structure directly below the hair follicle) breaks away and rests below the scalp.

Finally there is the Telogen, the Resting Phase, which lasts about 5 – 6 weeks. Approximately 10 to 15 percent of all hairs on your head are in this resting phase at any given moment. At the end of this stage, the hair follicle re-enters the growth phase. The dermal papilla and the base of the follicle join together again and a new hair begins to form. In some cases, the new hair will push the old hair out of the way and the hair growth cycle starts all over again.

So now that you know all about the growth cycles, how do you maintain healthy hair? I think most people focus on the stuff they put on their hair. However, research shows that more attention is needed to the stuff we put into our bodies. So apart from the good shampoos and conditioners I recommended in my previous blog, you have to eat foods that support healthy hair growth. According to webmd.com, "If you eat a healthy diet, you will grow stronger and healthier cells throughout your entire body -- inside and out."

To get you on a path to “good” hair here are some foods you can incorporate into your diet:

1. Salmon - Rich in omega3 fatty acids

2. Green Veggies – Leafy green vegetables are an excellent source of vitamins and nutriments. Romaine lettuce, broccoli and spinach is a good place to start.

3. Beans- chock full of biotin (biotin deficiency can promote hair loss)

4. Nuts - Such as brazil nuts & almonds

5. Oysters – You’d better pack up on those oysters! Not only are they known as an aphrodisiac, it’s an antioxidant and a great source of zinc.

6. Whole grains

In addition to eating a healthy diet, there are some basic steps you can take to pamper your tresses. Brush your hair often. Brushing stimulates the scalp and blow flow, which in turn promotes hair growth. Trim ends about every 4 -8 weeks, deep condition weekly or biweekly by using Moroccanoil Hydrating Mask or Mizani Renew Strength Reconstructing Masque. Top it off with a good leave-in conditioner, such as Mizani Thermasmooth Smooth Guard Smoothing Serum.

Pop quiz! So what are the three phase of the hair growth cycle? Name three foods that nourish your body and hair? What two things should you do to your hair often? If you answered with ease, you are on your way to super healthy hair. If not, you have a little more studying to do. Until next time…

Nadia Vassell


Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Choosing the Right Shampoo and Conditioner to Satisfy Your Hair Needs


No two heads are alike. We all have different hair textures, different scalp and hair conditions and different likes/dislikes. Therefore, we must have a shampoo and conditioner that is tailored for our needs. In a perfect world we’d be able to have our own team of scientists, chemists and hair experts toiling away in the laboratory creating a shampoo and conditioner specifically for us. But the reality is only a small segment of the population can afford such luxury. So what do the rest of us mere mortals do? Many of us stumble upon the perfect shampoo-conditioner tandem after years of trial and error.

In today’s hair care market, there are endless products to select from. You have to analyze the overall health of your hair and scalp then choose what’s best for you. That choice may not necessarily be the most expensive product available or the most popular. In some cases, you may find that your perfection in a bottle may be slightly more economical and omitted from the “Top Ten Most Popular Shampoos/Conditioners” list. But the most important thing is that the products work for you! In my profession, I naturally have the opportunity to try and sample a wide variety of hair care products from various companies. Below are the shampoos and conditioners that are used in The Nadia Vassell Salon and have proven to minimize breakage as well as improve the overall health of my clients’ hair.

But before I jump into the list, I want to talk first about the purpose of shampoo so that we can be on the same page. The primary function of shampoo is to remove the build-up of environmental pollutants, oil, hairspray and all of the everyday goop that we pour on our hair. Shampoo is also used to help combat certain scalp issues like dandruff, psoriasis and seborrhea dermatitis (excessive oily scalp). If you have extreme scalp conditions its best to consult a dermatologist who may prescribe a medicated shampoo or an OTC treatment.

Shampoo

1. Mizani Scalp Care Shampoo - Recommended for clients with severe or moderate scalp problems, such as psoriasis, scalp scaling and flaking. Infused with two ingredients, salicylic acid and pyrithion zinc, its proven to combat these issues. The peppermint oil and cucumber extract create a cool sensation on the scalp, and it moisturizes the hair without build-up.

2. Mizani Botanifying Shampoo – Recommended for everyday use. This shampoo is extremely moisturizing and effectively strengthens the hair and protects it against split ends and breakage.

3. Mizani PuriPhying – I typically use this as a first wash then chase it with the Mizani Botanifying Shampoo. It’s intense shampoo and does a really good job removing product build-up and pollutants.

4. Moroccanoil Moisture Repair Shampoo – This is a great shampoo that doesn’t strip the hair, but instead improves its overall health. It’s perfect for colored treated ‘locks and tresses that have been relaxed. And it’s free of sulfate and phosphate parabens making it gentle on the environment!

Conditioner

1. Moroccanoil Repair Conditioner – The ingredients in this delightful conditioner are argan oil, keratin, fatty acids and proteins. They all come together to detangle, restore moisture and leave the hair shiny!

2. Moisturefuse by Mizani – Improves the overall health of the hair and minimizes breakage.