Wednesday, October 27, 2010

Everything Hair-Weaves and Haircare: Weaving is simply an embellishment. Similar to put...

Everything Hair-Weaves and Haircare: Weaving is simply an embellishment. Similar to put...: "Weaving is simply an embellishment. Similar to putting on makeup, a particular type of nail polish, clothing, luxury bags. The debate about ..."

I know it’s been a while since you’ve heard from me. When I began blogging, my sole purpose was to provide you with solid, accessible information that will help you maintain those healthy, shiny tresses. But for the last few days (or what seems like weeks) I’ve been hampered by writer’s block. I just couldn’t figure out what to talk about or maybe I just wasn’t motivated. That’s a lot like our hair. Sometimes it just doesn’t want to do what we want it to do!

Well, after a discussion with my colleague about Marcel Irons and Ceramic Irons and the potential damage that can be caused by the latter, I found myself doing extensive research about the topic. And so it seems that the block has been lifted. Ahhh!

We all want that sleek, straight, shiny Ciara-look, right? So how can Black women (or any woman with tight curly hair) achieve this? We use many methods such as relaxers, straightening combs, Keratin Smoothing Therapy and yes, flat irons. Before you fall into a flat iron craze (or if you already have) tread lightly or else your attempts to achieve A-List celebrity hair status may leave your ‘locs listless!

Dermatologist Paradi Mirmirani, MD. FAAD, assistant clinical professor of dermatology, University of California, San Franciso suggests that some ceramic irons can cause damage if used frequently and improperly. The newer flat irons that have a ceramic coating instead of a metal one are marketed as providing more rapid and uniform heat transmission. While this allows for quicker straightening of the hair with less damage, it is really a classic case of buyer beware,” said Dr. Mirmirani. “We’re seeing that when these ceramic flat irons are used at the highest heat settings and on a daily basis to achieve straight hair, they can really take a toll on the structure of the hair and cause very noticeable problems that can be hard to repair.” (Paradi Mirmirani, 2008).

Based on Dr. Mirmirani’s contention if you use a ceramic iron on a daily basis to maintain your Ciara look, you are asking for what may follow - damage to the outer cuticle, causing weathering damage and eventually hair breakage which can be difficult to repair.

Hair weathering is described as dry ends or fly-away hair. However, if breakage occurs, it can happen anywhere along the length of the hair and cause that shaggy or limp appearance. This in turn may encourage flat-iron users to use the heated device with more frequency in an attempt to try and “fix” the problem, but all this does is lead to more damage.

To avoid this damaging cycle, let’s look at some steps to protect your hair.

§ Use flat iron less frequently, no more than 2-3 times per week.

§ Use on dry hair only.

§ Use a heat protector like Thermasmooth Smooth Guard Smoothing Serum by Mizani to coat your hair before applying any form of heat. Not only does this protect your hair, it also helps maintain newly straightened tresses longer.

§ The heat setting should be no higher than 347 degrees F or 175 degrees C.

If your hair is already damaged, then I suggest you see a hair care professional as soon as possible and refrain from applying heat and/or chemicals to your own mane. The hair specialist should trim the damaged ends to allow for new strands to grow and place you on a conditioning regiment until your hair is strong and healthy.

Once your hair is behaving beautifully and you have achieved the Ciara-look; you can follow her workout routine so you can also duplicate her toned physique. J

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Weaving is simply an embellishment. Similar to putting on makeup, a particular type of nail polish, clothing, luxury bags. The debate about weave is sometime exaggerated if you ask me. Don't over think it. Do it if you would like. Do not if you don't. But don't knock the lady who does because you never know... You might wear makeup and she doesn't. Does that make one "bad"? hmmm....The beauty of it is that you have a choice...

Just saw Chris rock good hair and thought it was hilarious yet thought provoking. Have to wonder about the statement that our very emotion, and self esteem is dependent on how our hair looks! ..really?


Shereen Ashman

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

What Does Your Hair Do For You?

Our hair sets the stage for our entire outfit, our confidence and the way that we speak. It’s funny how a perky mood can be destroyed by a bad hair day. I have experienced this before and will undoubtedly experience it again in the future because a bad hair day is inevitable and can’t always be avoided. If I am having a bad hair day, I usually refuse to attend any social gatherings. That means no bars, no clubs, no parties - no nothing! And guys please don’t approach me and ask me to dance, offer to buy a drink, ask me my name or if I’m single. You’re gonna hate me because of my “bad hair day stank attitude!” Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

If a bad hair day can ruin your mood, a good hair day can instantly lift your spirits. Hair that’s done just right can help potential jobseekers land that plum job. With beautifully coiffed hair, the climate during an interview is as perfect as a Caribbean breeze. You are more likely to sit tall, ask relevant questions and answer questions asked of you with confidence. You’ll look the interviewer directly in the eye and not worry that your hair is the focal point for all the wrong reasons. A great hair day alters the way you walk down the street; you cheerfully strut with movie-like theme music buzzing in your head as your feet hit the pavement. And, you welcome advances from (cute) guys. On a good hair day you simply cannot be defeated!

So what does your hair do for you?

Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Mane-Taining Healthy Hair


Maintaining healthy hair shouldn’t be that hard; it’s actually quite simple if we follow a few basic steps. The same time, energy and attention that we devote to our body and skincare routines should also be given to our manes. Follow my tried and true regiment and you’re off to a great start.

Before we dive in, let’s flashback to science class for moment; there may be a pop quiz so pay attention to Professor Vassell! :-) In order to maintain healthy hair, I believe it’s important to know and understand the three phases of the growth cycle – Anagen, Categen, and Telogen. First up is Anagen, the Growth Phase. Approximately 85% of the hair on your head is in the growth stage at any given time. This period lasts for about 2 – 6 years. As I’m sure you’ve already reasoned this phase determines the length of your hair. Obviously, the longer your hair remains in the Anagen Phase, the longer it will grow. Clients always ask me, “Why doesn’t my hair grow longer?” You now know this is due to a short active phase growth.

Next is Categen, the Transitional Phase. When the Anagen Phase ends, hair enters into a Categen Phase which lasts about 2 -3 weeks. During this time the outer hair follicle shrinks to about 1/6th of the normal diameter. The root is diminished and the dermal papilla (group of cells that form the structure directly below the hair follicle) breaks away and rests below the scalp.

Finally there is the Telogen, the Resting Phase, which lasts about 5 – 6 weeks. Approximately 10 to 15 percent of all hairs on your head are in this resting phase at any given moment. At the end of this stage, the hair follicle re-enters the growth phase. The dermal papilla and the base of the follicle join together again and a new hair begins to form. In some cases, the new hair will push the old hair out of the way and the hair growth cycle starts all over again.

So now that you know all about the growth cycles, how do you maintain healthy hair? I think most people focus on the stuff they put on their hair. However, research shows that more attention is needed to the stuff we put into our bodies. So apart from the good shampoos and conditioners I recommended in my previous blog, you have to eat foods that support healthy hair growth. According to webmd.com, "If you eat a healthy diet, you will grow stronger and healthier cells throughout your entire body -- inside and out."

To get you on a path to “good” hair here are some foods you can incorporate into your diet:

1. Salmon - Rich in omega3 fatty acids

2. Green Veggies – Leafy green vegetables are an excellent source of vitamins and nutriments. Romaine lettuce, broccoli and spinach is a good place to start.

3. Beans- chock full of biotin (biotin deficiency can promote hair loss)

4. Nuts - Such as brazil nuts & almonds

5. Oysters – You’d better pack up on those oysters! Not only are they known as an aphrodisiac, it’s an antioxidant and a great source of zinc.

6. Whole grains

In addition to eating a healthy diet, there are some basic steps you can take to pamper your tresses. Brush your hair often. Brushing stimulates the scalp and blow flow, which in turn promotes hair growth. Trim ends about every 4 -8 weeks, deep condition weekly or biweekly by using Moroccanoil Hydrating Mask or Mizani Renew Strength Reconstructing Masque. Top it off with a good leave-in conditioner, such as Mizani Thermasmooth Smooth Guard Smoothing Serum.

Pop quiz! So what are the three phase of the hair growth cycle? Name three foods that nourish your body and hair? What two things should you do to your hair often? If you answered with ease, you are on your way to super healthy hair. If not, you have a little more studying to do. Until next time…

Nadia Vassell


Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Choosing the Right Shampoo and Conditioner to Satisfy Your Hair Needs


No two heads are alike. We all have different hair textures, different scalp and hair conditions and different likes/dislikes. Therefore, we must have a shampoo and conditioner that is tailored for our needs. In a perfect world we’d be able to have our own team of scientists, chemists and hair experts toiling away in the laboratory creating a shampoo and conditioner specifically for us. But the reality is only a small segment of the population can afford such luxury. So what do the rest of us mere mortals do? Many of us stumble upon the perfect shampoo-conditioner tandem after years of trial and error.

In today’s hair care market, there are endless products to select from. You have to analyze the overall health of your hair and scalp then choose what’s best for you. That choice may not necessarily be the most expensive product available or the most popular. In some cases, you may find that your perfection in a bottle may be slightly more economical and omitted from the “Top Ten Most Popular Shampoos/Conditioners” list. But the most important thing is that the products work for you! In my profession, I naturally have the opportunity to try and sample a wide variety of hair care products from various companies. Below are the shampoos and conditioners that are used in The Nadia Vassell Salon and have proven to minimize breakage as well as improve the overall health of my clients’ hair.

But before I jump into the list, I want to talk first about the purpose of shampoo so that we can be on the same page. The primary function of shampoo is to remove the build-up of environmental pollutants, oil, hairspray and all of the everyday goop that we pour on our hair. Shampoo is also used to help combat certain scalp issues like dandruff, psoriasis and seborrhea dermatitis (excessive oily scalp). If you have extreme scalp conditions its best to consult a dermatologist who may prescribe a medicated shampoo or an OTC treatment.

Shampoo

1. Mizani Scalp Care Shampoo - Recommended for clients with severe or moderate scalp problems, such as psoriasis, scalp scaling and flaking. Infused with two ingredients, salicylic acid and pyrithion zinc, its proven to combat these issues. The peppermint oil and cucumber extract create a cool sensation on the scalp, and it moisturizes the hair without build-up.

2. Mizani Botanifying Shampoo – Recommended for everyday use. This shampoo is extremely moisturizing and effectively strengthens the hair and protects it against split ends and breakage.

3. Mizani PuriPhying – I typically use this as a first wash then chase it with the Mizani Botanifying Shampoo. It’s intense shampoo and does a really good job removing product build-up and pollutants.

4. Moroccanoil Moisture Repair Shampoo – This is a great shampoo that doesn’t strip the hair, but instead improves its overall health. It’s perfect for colored treated ‘locks and tresses that have been relaxed. And it’s free of sulfate and phosphate parabens making it gentle on the environment!

Conditioner

1. Moroccanoil Repair Conditioner – The ingredients in this delightful conditioner are argan oil, keratin, fatty acids and proteins. They all come together to detangle, restore moisture and leave the hair shiny!

2. Moisturefuse by Mizani – Improves the overall health of the hair and minimizes breakage.

Monday, November 2, 2009

Best Beauty Products

As we approach the winter season, how do we prepare our hair to live through the harsh days of winter?  Every living organism does it, so why can't we; Plants rest and live off stored foods until spring, they shed older leaves and grow new ones, these leaves become damage by insects, diseases and the weather.  As humans, our hair goes through a similar process, it becomes damage from harsh chemicals such as, hair rhelaxers, hair colors and even hair weaves (when its not done properly).  I have selected five products that can help hydrate your hair, restores balance and maintain healthy hair.  

My clients and I agree on the product, its the Mizani's Botanifying Shampoo; this is a very gentle shampoo, it soothes the scalp, restores moisture and it smells great.


  Ojon Restorative Hair Treatment.  I was introduced to this great product which contains pure Ojon oil a few years ago.  I immediately fell in love with it and highly recommend it for dry damaged hair.


  Moroccanoil.  After a visit to New York City's IBS show this summer, Moroccanoil treatment is an ideal additive to your rhelaxer/hair color.  Before you blowdry, apply a small amount into the palm of your hands, rub together and distribute evenly throughout your hair.  The results, beautiful smooth hair.


  Phytodefrisant Botanical Hair Relaxing Balm .  This light-weight, non-sticky product leaves your hair shiny and bouncy, can be applied on any hair texture before blow drying or flat ironing. Every stylist should pack this in their kit/ salon.  a little goes a long way.


Aveda Air Control Hair Spray, keeps hair in place, provides a non greasy shine and goes on dry.  Hair still maintains it's natural movement and your style stays much longer.  I love it, my clients loves and I know you will too.


Enjoy!



xoxo,
Nadia Vassell

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

what's all the fuss about?

That is the question,

Hairweaving has been around from many generations, we have transformed the hairweaving into  techniques that makes the weave look like its yours.  So why are so many women ashamed of it? God knows I am not ashamed of, Im a weaveaholic like some individuals like Joy Bryan calls herself.  Im happy that I am not alone on this weave thing and that there are many more money out there who loves their weaves.  Without a weave I honestly do not feel the same, I feel less confident and not that sexy.  I mean I have some hair under my weave, but I prefer to deal with the Indian hair than my own hair.  My hair would be too much work, the blowdrying, the press or the flat iron and maybe some relaxer, thats just too much work.  I prefer spending time doing something more meaningful. Like today, we had high winds and precautions were recommended, watch out for tree limbs, garbage and wigs(they actually did not say that but I had to put it in).  My hair was blowing all over the place and guess what I did not have to do a single thing to put it back in place, it just bounced right back in place.  Imagine I had my own hair, that would be the end of my hairstyle a complete waste of money.  

The bottom line is as long as people in India offer their own hair as a form of sacrifice, I will continue to wear weaves.

What are your thoughts?

Tuesday, August 18, 2009


As I prepare for my next big exotic destination, in beautiful Honduras, "bordered by Guatemala, El Salvador, and Nicaragua in Central America, which is rapidly becoming the Next Big Thing in vacation destinations"(american lifestyle). I am making sure that I have the right hair texture that can withstand the possibility of rain and the many activities i will immerse myself in.  Right now I am wearing what is called the Permed texture,  we worked extensively with our sources to ascertain that the hair can stand the test of blow-drying, heat styling and the humidity.  Just a spray of water and a great leave-in conditioner is all you need.  I recommend  Morrocanoil Intense Curl Cream, this leave-in conditioner will have your hair feeling soft, will not leave a residue, defines your curls and your weave hair will look oh so natural.  So for my next trip, I will surely pack my Morrocanoil Intense curl cream.


Until next time
Nadia Vassell

Monday, August 10, 2009

OMG my 1st Blog piece was wiped out!

Lordy,

Well how frustrating is that? I just popped my blog cherry and somehow my computer went offline.

It was the perfect first blog too! Crapola. Anyhow, I'm happy to try and re-write what I had, I'll try.

I just wanted to say how proud I am of my partner Nadia Vassell , "StileDiva", and "Havenhairextensions" for such a successful event in St. Maarten. I have to thank all the people that came out to look at the product we so firmly stand behind.

I'm simply glad that women won't have to go to the beauty supply every week to get new hair, because of the poor quality they have been provided with for so long.

Ladies have no fear, haven hairextensions is here! We will not neglect you! You deserve all the outwardly beauty that hair enhancements provide, just like the rest of the world!!

I'm glad we can be hair for you-lol, I know I'm corny!

Anyhow, I'm in Costa Rica, dipping in and out of water, with the hair, havenhairextensions so happily supplies.

Ladies of the world be beautiful (in and outside) and stay positive.

Tika

My time in St. Maarten


Hello to all,

This is my first time writing on a blog, ever! I'm super excited. I don't know how far I'll go with it, but here I go.

First and foremost, I am so grateful and proud of my business partner Nadia Vassell and our new hair enhancement company "HavenHairextensions". We finally completed our launch in St. Maarten, it was an absolute blast and a great success.

I'm glad that the islands will no longer be a neglected island for hair extensions. I know my hair held up in the humidity while I was there. It was big and curly just how I like it.

It was a quick but fun trip for me, I'm happy the clients got "us" and the products that we stand behind. Every time I spoke to future clients about the hair, I got super excited, and tried to explain every single thing to them about why our hair is special, and how they no longer have to make a trip to the beauty supply every week, to waste money on new hair.

I'm in Costa Rica right now, and my hair is big and wavy once again, but it's just as easy to wear it in a bun, boy am I excited to continue our search for quality hair, to make women feel as beautiful as they are on the inside, even more glam on the outer shell, cause that's how I'm feeling right now.

Alrighty guys this is the end of my first blog piece. I promise I'll get better as I go along.

Saturday, August 1, 2009

Our Launch Party



Our Launch Party was very successful, Tika and I are extremely happy to present our products in the Caribbean and the feedback was phenomenal. First and foremost I must thank St. Maarten for welcoming us with such open arms as always and we look forward to a very bright future.   Haven Hairextensions would like to personally thank Stile Diva Executives, Shereen Ashman and Stacy Violenes for making this a successful event as anticipated, without Shereen and Stacy  I honestly do not know what the outcome would have been.   You guys are amazing.  We stayed at the Holland House Beach hotel and I must say that this is the place where everything, from service, food, the rooms were exceptional,  Thanks to the Holland House Beach Hotel for accommodating me and my Guest.  We look forward to Next year.  Thanks to Mizani, We are extremely  appreciative, the products were well received, from the renew strength, the scalp care system and amongst other products.  Thanks a million Mizani.  Thanks to Morrocanoil for providing us with your amazing oil treatment, we look forward to working with you in the near future.  Thanks to the Media, like Laser 101, AVS, 90.9 FM and the infamous DJ Blaze.  Kaisha Peters, girl! you were awesome, your designs were exceptional and I look forward to squeeze myself into one of your fabulous collections.  Thanks to Keston Duke, photographer, I absolutely appreciate you and I hope we can do this again, you did this on very ample time and for that we are greatful.  Kammie, I want you to know that i appreciate you, you are amazing, again, happy birthday!! lisa p, bridgette P, Andrea, Merry and Sherese Jackson.

Please look forward to our Big Launch in a City near you.


xoxoxo

Thursday, July 16, 2009

Best products for Hair weaves



Finding the right product to use on your hair weaving is all trial and error, as you know im a product free or product less stylist.  The less product you use, the better it is for the hair, the more movement will be achieved.  Here are some products I recommend to use on your human hair.

1. Shampoo- keraCare Detangling/Hydrating Shampoo

2. Shampoo- Indigo Icymint (ideal for itchy, dry scalp, your scalp will fell clean and minty fresh)

3. Shampoo- Mizani Puriphying, Botanifying

4. Conditioners, the less, the better your hair weave will move.  I would recommend a dime size of any conditioner, but it also depends on how you will be styling your hair.  If you plan on wearing it straight, then a small amount of conditioner, if you plan on wearing it wavy or curly, then you can douse the hair with conditioner.  So here are a list of recommended conditioner,
5. Mizani's Moisturefuse

6. Ojon's Ultral Hydrating Conditioner

7. Morrocan oil Moisture Repair Conditioner


For styling aides, I can recommend Air control airspray by aveda, this product has your weave smelling awesome and Bed Head hairstick for cool people, this product eliminates static and gives a smooth shiny finish.





Hope I was helpful and look forward to my next post



xoxo
Nadia Vassell

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

See what I will be up to in St. Maarten for my Haven Hair Extensions Launching~July 31& August 1, 2009


Friday July 31,2009
9 a.m:  Radio Interview with Electra on lazer 101.
10 a.m: Radio Interview with Sharlyn on 99.9
2 p.m: Radio Interview with G Money on Lazer 101
7 p.m: Cocktail Celebration @ Holland House Beach Hotel 
~~~~~
Saturday August 1, 2009
3 p.m:     Beauty Brunch ~ Launching Haven Hair Extensions @ Holland House Beach Hotel
11 p.m: Tantra Night Club
~~~~~~
Sunday August 2, 2009 
Free day: We will be at the beach then spahhhh.

need more information?
info@stilediva.com

Monday, July 13, 2009

How to choose the perfect hair?

 Choosing hair can be a wearisome experience, but not to worry,  in time you will be able to identify quality human hair and choose the one that suits you perfectly.

First  and foremost is to choose a style that is conducive to your daily beauty regimen.  So if you are going to use straight, curly or wavy hair, make certain that this is something that can be easily done by you on a daily basis.


Secondly, you want to ascertain that the texture you choose somewhat matches your texture and color.  So, if say your hair is virgin hair, I would probably recommend something like perm straight/relax texture, this texture matches perfectly with virgin hair.  

Third- determine how much money you want to spend on hair, the better quality hair can cost between 300-600 dollars.  Then there is the not so good quality, but who wants to put not so good hair on-all will happen is extreme tangling and shedding.

last but absolutely not least is finding an experience stylist to complete the hair-weaving process.  If your stylist is verse with hair weaving then you do not have to follow all these steps, he or she can provide valuable resources.

Saturday, July 11, 2009

Excited to launch haven hair extensions



Stylist to the Stars, Nadia Vassell’s work is best displayed by artists like Chrisette Michele, Lil Mama, Ashanti, Rhianna, Russell Simmons Music Group-Black Budda Fly, and Roc-A-Fella artist-Teirra Mari among others. Nadia is best Known for her undetectable weaves and promotion of healthy hair. Television and print profiles of her work are include in lifestyle magazines such as Uptown, Essence, Black Sophisticate, Smooth and many more. Establishing Haven Hair Extensions was a natural trajectory in Nadia's professional expansion - founded with her long time client and actress Tika Sumpter, best known for her role on the day time hit" One life to Live". To ensure their discerning clients the most opulent quality of hair, the Tika and Nadia traveled to the south east coast of India and hand picked the product. 

Both Tika and Nadia know what people want from human hair suppliers. After becoming completely frustrated with the un-professionalism of hair suppliers across the country, because of frequently receiving the wrong colors, lengths, and styles of hair, they both later realized that those suppliers did not understand or care about what they wanted. This was demonstrated by the fact that attention was not paid to the details on many occasions, in which their orders were placed.  

We are here because we want to provide quality one-hundred percent human hair and superb customer service. Tika and Nadia together have 20 years of experience and know precisely what a customer wants and needs. Our products have been hand selected by us from reputable suppliers with many years of experience from the south east coast of India. We pride ourselves on quality and customer service. Haven Hairextensions knows “you deserve better” because you simply do and we truly believe it.  Happy shopping!

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Stigma about hair weaving

Recently, I had a client, she has been visiting the salon for almost a year now.  We started to discuss, hair-weaving/hair-extensions and she shared her story with me.  Once she was with friends who had no idea that she had hair weave, they must have been drunk because out of the blues one friend touches her hair and felt something, (which was her braids and believe me the way I do braids are pretty much undetectable) they friend immediately withdrew his hands and rudely asked in front of others, "is that hair extensions".  My client explained that she felt extremely embarrassed over the entire situation.  My advice to her was, hair extensions/ hair weaves enhances what you currently have, whether you do it for length, volume, color or maybe you are like me addicted.  Whats your experience with hair extensions/ hair-weaves?

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

The Best hair extensions method



The traditional braiding technique is by far my favorite, In my opinion, it is less stress to your hair.  This technique starts with a solid foundation (braids) which are firm, not too tight and very flat to the clients head, http://www.nvme.net.  This technique can last about 2-3 months with proper maintenance. 

Beauty Brunch launching - in St. Maarten









We are excited to commence our international launch of Haven Hair Extensions, scheduled for August 1, 2009 in sunny St. Maarten. 

Our Beauty Brunch launching will be hosted at the Holland House Beach Hotel and feature sweets, treats, margaritas and much more. 

Nadia Vassell will honor four ladies in the media with a makeover session. Check back for before and after pictures! 

Join us in St. Maarten for our launching: July 31-August 3, 2009. All our guests receive a special hotel rate to stay at our choice hotel: Holland House Beach Hotel. For more information please contact our brand manager: Shereen Ashman of Stile Diva Inc at info@stilediva.com. 

See you in sunny St. Maarten!  


Thursday, June 18, 2009

Need a stylist who can achieve natural looking Hair Extension?








In need of a hair weave?







Let Nadia Vassell help you create a natural looking weave with a technique that is safe for your hair and the most luxurious human hair from her collection of Haven Hair Extensions. 

Nadia is a professional well sought- after  weave expert in  New York City. Her work can be seen on artists like Chrisette Michele, Lil Mama, Ashanti and her business partner and actress tika Sumpter, and many more. 

Her work has been profiled in various lifestyle magazines including Uptown, Essence, Black Sophisticate, Smooth and many more.  

Nadia also frequently visits St. Maarten to teach weaving techniques to hairstylists, students and cosmetology instructors.